Heron Island Resort

The wildlife is the reason to come: we saw giant turtles nesting and hatching, swam among stingrays, turtles, sharks and plenty of other fish in warm, sheltered water, and had several David Attenborough moments. The local bird population is said to number 100,000, and it is loud day and night. Droppings cover practically everything, so wear a hat outside. Getting hit may supposedly bring luck, but by the fifth time it had stopped being amusing. If you can join an outing with resident marine biologist Ethan, do. He’s passionate and knows a lot. That natural experience sits alongside a very tired resort. The grounds are filthy and neglected, and the buildings and rooms feel run down and broken. We spent four nights there and our room was never serviced. The resort charges like a luxury property, but don’t expect good food, a comfortable air-conditioned room or a pleasant beach bar for sunset. A basic gin and tonic or bourbon costs $36. Staff, including the restaurant team, were friendly and keen to help, though they seemed to have little hospitality training, and what arrived wasn’t always what we thought we’d ordered. Management needs to answer for problems across the resort. Excursions cost $45-$50 each, although such activities are often complimentary elsewhere, which set an expectation of a worthwhile experience. Our one-hour kayak tour lasted just 25 minutes, with no water visibility and large waves. It shouldn’t have gone out. For reasons we weren’t given, the sunset cruise was cancelled despite a perfect evening. In short, I’d rate the destination highly for birds, snorkelling and diving, but not the food or accommodation under the current management.

The island’s location is the one thing I liked. Everything else made the stay feel unsafe and unhygienic. Bird droppings were all over the paths, buildings and outdoor areas, and the smell was strong everywhere. Walking around meant constantly risking getting hit. Our room was old, dirty and poorly kept, with stained cushions and dirty floors. The door wouldn’t close properly and had no lock, which is a serious safety concern. Some rooms lack air conditioning, and there’s no Wi-Fi unless you pay for it each day. None of that was disclosed before we arrived. For meals, the only choices were a buffet or takeaway boxes. There wasn’t a sit-down restaurant anywhere on the island, so this didn’t feel like a resort stay at all. Avoid it.

The boat trip both ways was lovely, and the clear water made snorkelling enjoyable. Gear was free to use, and seeing turtles nesting was something special. Restaurant meals were generous, tasty and good value, and the staff were friendly and helpful. The resort and its grounds are badly run down, with poorly kept paths. Rooms are very basic, have no air conditioning, and get hot and stuffy at night. We couldn’t leave the unscreened windows open because birds would come in, and even the loud ceiling fan didn’t make the room comfortable. Signs were unclear, particularly for beach access and the exit. Coral bleaching has left mostly sand for snorkelling from the beach, with only limited coral viewing near the jetty.

The wildlife and snorkelling were the best parts of our week on Heron Island. But the service and food were awful, and Wi-Fi costs $25 for each 24-hour connection. My husband and I visited nine years ago and back then the service was good, Wi-Fi was free and the food felt five-star. Now the place has deteriorated badly.