Hotel Cupim

Really good.

The snacks, cheese bread, and potato bread are the only things that save this place. They’re good, and the prices may be what keep people coming in. Otherwise, I’m surprised it hasn’t closed. The dining area doesn’t feel very clean, and the staff are barely welcoming. It’s sad to see, since this used to be a landmark on the way down to Rio and is now in serious decline. The gas station is just as discouraging. I didn’t fill up there and wouldn’t, even though its price may be the lowest along this stretch. It has no brand name and looks extremely dirty and basic, so I’d have doubts about where the fuel comes from.

I still recommend the hot ham-and-cheese on potato bread if you want something good to eat on the road. It costs 12 reais and is smaller than a French roll, but it tastes great. The potato bread itself is still excellent. I mostly keep stopping at Cupim for the nostalgia now. When I was a kid, my family always came here on the way to Rio and back. It used to be packed, with crafts and other things for kids to look at. Some of that has disappeared, and lately the place has seemed more abandoned. On my last few visits it was empty, often with one customer or none, which feels odd in such a large space. The bathrooms are old, but generally clean.

We always stopped at Hotel Cupim when I traveled to my grandparents’ home in Minas. It’s sad to read the comments and hear that they haven’t invested in the place.