Qingchengshan Yuanming Palace

The place itself is striking, a steep-sided hill rising like a finger toward the sky. You pass traditional buildings and temples as you make your way up all those stairs, and the summit has a real spiritual atmosphere, fitting for Taoism's birthplace. Clouds, mist and humidity hide most of the views, though the breaks from climbing are welcome. There's a path around the lake, so you don't have to take the packed ferry, which felt a bit concerning. The climb can also mean dealing with people determined to take selfies right where you're standing, plus tacky stalls and shops. Getting there was cheap: the train from Chengdu North cost £5, the Metro from central Chengdu was £0.40p, and a taxi at the other end was £5. Book the train early and set aside a day.