Qinnanshe Lane Inn (Tongli Ancient Town Store)

At sunrise and sundown, before the crowds arrive, wandering through the alleys was fun. The town seems to get too busy at other times. I did find it a bit dirty, including the water, and there are too many signs of modern life.

The town near Suzhou feels lively, with markets, stalls, and shops all around. Its many bridges are beautiful examples of fine stone masonry, linking the two sides of town. The setting is extraordinary, and it's easy to imagine what it might have looked like in the 19th century. It really earns the name “Venice of the East”.

We stayed four nights and really enjoyed the slower pace, even though getting into town takes about an hour by train. The river is a lovely place to watch local life, and the town is especially peaceful after 8pm and before 9am. Entry costs RMB100 between 8am and 5.15pm, and that ticket covers several attractions in Tongli. To get there, take Line 4 to Tongli MRT, leave through exits 9 or 10, then catch the free tram. It runs from 7am to 7.15pm and takes around 15 minutes to reach the North Entrance. The original buildings have been preserved, so some places to stay may feel old. There are also accommodations within walking distance that have better facilities.

It was a weekday, and the place felt deserted. China has so many ancient towns, and getting here meant a long trip from Shanghai to Suzhou station, followed by a cab to Tongli Ancient town.