Hotel Playa Negra

The people are the reason I miss this place as soon as I leave. After just two years, I already think of the staff as family. Managers Rachel and Reynal go out of their way to keep things running smoothly. Monse, Dorian, Darwin, Mary, and Silvia from the restaurant make lovely company, and Javier is an amazing surf instructor. Every yoga teacher I’ve met has been great too. The cleaning, cooking, and maintenance crews, along with the front desk staff including Lisa, are always smiling and extra kind. We first came last year after becoming part of a group that has met here every February for about 15 years. Our visit last week was just as amazing. The hotel is meant to be secluded, with local people and nature all around, and the rustic rooms are part of its charm. If you can, splurge on a suite with AC. Otherwise, closing the blinds during the day helps keep the heat out. At night, open windows bring in a nice breeze and the sounds of nature. The restaurant uses delicious fresh ingredients, and the fruit, juices, cocktails, and ceviche are all wonderful. Don’t miss a single sunset. Pack a flashlight, bug spray since the gift shop won’t have any, and perhaps a portable fan if you’re worried about heat. Sunscreen is sold in the shop, but they can run out. I’d also bring yoga clothes, anti-itch cream, an insulated water bottle, a small first aid kit, sunglasses, a hat, sun shirts, and swimsuits. This isn’t Cabo or Tulum, so leave the dramatic kaftans and high heels at home. Light, breathable, comfortable layers are the way to go.

Raquel the manager was awesome, the rooms look really cool, and the surf break is right there. But I got eaten alive by bed bugs, so I can’t go back.

The setting is hard to beat: right on the ocean at Playa Negra, Guanacaste, Costa Rica, with a beautiful view of the surroundings. It has an alternative surfers’ lodge vibe, and the staff and local people are super friendly and welcoming. The hotel itself could use a substantial renovation, especially given the nightly rates. The pools are in fairly good shape, although the adults’ pool is missing quite a few tiles. The Shala, where people take yoga classes and relax in hammocks, also needs its roof and floors touched up. If you don’t mind noticing things that need fixing during your stay, the location may still make it worthwhile.

The beach is beautiful and secluded, with striking dark sand patterns all along the shore. Every wave seems to draw a new design. From the spacious restaurant, you get amazing beachfront views right from the dinner table, and the waves break very nearby. The currents are strong, though, so respect for the sea is essential. It’s a surf spot for more experienced swimmers.