Paul H.
I loved being based in Centro Havana, where local families are just going about their day. The street vendors with carts full of bread, garlic, flowers and produce made for great people-watching, and the taxi bikes were a cheap alternative to walking. It felt like everyday Cuba, while still being close to everything I wanted to see. I’d happily stay at Ca’Sita again. Odalis and Sita welcomed me when I arrived and took turns making breakfast during my week there. The pumpkin pancakes were delicious. Other mornings brought eggs, toast, fruit or crepes, always with strong coffee from an Italian moka pot. Before I came, Sita offered to arrange vintage car taxis for both airport transfers. The remodeled three-bedroom apartment was clean and had everything I needed, including a hot-water shower. The double bed and cotton sheets were comfortable. Its high ceilings kept the place cool, and I only used the air conditioner for an hour one evening. The Malecon is a few blocks away for walks by the sea, and Havana Vieja is about a ten-minute walk. Parque Trillo, with public internet, is two blocks away. It’s always open, and evenings are pleasant there. I bought one-hour WiFi cards for 1 CUC at the ETECSA booth and could get online when I wanted. There wasn’t 3G service in Cuba, so I read three books in Ca'Sita’s cozy shared living room, with its period furniture and tiled floor. I took the guagua bus to Jaimanitas and came back on a smaller taxi rutero minibus. I saw the Fusterlandia urban art and had seafood at "Santi el Pescador". I also went by taxi to Varadero for the beaches and ate well at "Esquina Cuba", though Playas del Este was closer and I preferred it to the overbuilt Varadero. Ca'Sita provided beach towels. The Fábrica di Arte Cubana on 11 & 26 was a great place to spend an evening, with live music, exhibits and local arts and crafts. Its restaurant had a good Cuban sandwich. Another night I ate well at "El Chanchullero" on Teniente Rey in Havana Vieja. Within walking distance were "Tu Tiempo Cafeteria" on Hospital & Jovellar, "Biky" on Infanta & San Lazaro, and "Casa Miglis" on Lealtad, Swedish/Cuban food that was a bit pricier but yummy. Parque Trillo and the nearby sights were part of what made this neighborhood work for me. It’s close to what matters, but away from the tourist crowds in 1950's Chevys around the old town. Highly recommended.
