Arriola Txiki

A peaceful little country inn, with welcoming service and tasty meals.

The drive up on GI-3210 is long and tiring, but the scenery along the way is beautiful, and getting here was worth it. We had originally planned to go from Bilbao to San Sebastien, then added Txiki / Itziar because we wanted a proper rural Basque experience. Mission accomplished. The hosts were very friendly, the rooms were lovely, and the views were stunning. We also enjoyed the old photos in the living room, which reminded me of my grandfather in a mountainous part of Greece, and all the animals: horses, dogs, and finally cats, which we love. No donkeys, though. Maybe that's more Mediterranean...

The hosts, Maider & Lourdes, were excellent to deal with, both beforehand by phone and during our stay. They can suggest places to visit and coastal walking routes. Pilgrims should also know about the lovely shortcut through dense woodland down to Deba. This is a historic Basque farm complex that once raised cattle, so the accommodation is rustic and has plenty of character. The landscaped garden looks out over Deba and the open sea, and feels like a peaceful oasis with cats and dogs wandering across the lawn. My room was comfortable, though a little humid in winter or spring. The shower worked fine, but showed some wear. Dinner was simple, pasta and roast chicken, and fine. I would have liked to be asked if I wanted a glass of wine during or after the meal. The freshly made rice pudding was good, and breakfast was great, with gluten-free Magdalenas available too. It takes some effort to get here, but it can be a worthwhile stop for pilgrims. If you enjoy rustic charm, attentive service, and a break from modern accommodation, this Hotel is a good choice for the Camino del Norte.

We stayed for several days and felt welcome right away. The people running the hotel are really friendly, and the rooms in the old farmhouse are beautiful. Don't miss the home-baked magdalenas at breakfast, such a treat!