Palacio las Manillas

We had dinner as part of the Smartbox, a three-course tasting menu that mixed local food with a modern touch. It was all delicious, with portions that suited us for dinner. Drinks and dessert cost extra, which seemed fair. The restaurant is well worth considering for lunch or dinner, even if you’re not a hotel guest. We spent the weekend at the hotel too. The rooms were nicely decorated and fine for a three-star place. The one drawback was that the heating came from the air conditioning.

The setting is beautiful, both the small palace and the village, and the rooms were decent. The beds weren’t comfortable, though, and the bathroom felt dated. We’d booked a night through a Wonderbox, the “One Thousand and One Nights” package with dinner and breakfast. After many hotels argued with us, none would accept one night as booked: they wanted us to pay for an extra day or go without dinner and breakfast. This hotel eventually agreed, though they first said no. They initially put us in a twin room and said there were no alternatives, then gave us another room before dinner, saying a guest had checked out. Manolo was helpful and pleasant, as other people have mentioned, but the dinner experience left us feeling ripped off. The meal was included in the box, and Manolo offered wine or another drink. We each had two glasses. The fixed tasting menu had no substitutions, and he didn’t ask about allergies. We got a salmorejo each, three chorizo croquettes, and fried eggplant with honey to share. He then offered dessert, and we accepted. Only as we were leaving did he say drinks and dessert weren’t included. He should have explained that first, so we could know the prices and choose, or ask for tap water. We didn’t refuse to pay, but the charge was €25.60: four glasses of Mercadona-style sparkling wine at €4 each, though a bottle costs €5, plus two small dessert cups at €4.80 apiece. With the menu charges, the total would have been €70.40. The food and drinks were only average and didn’t feel regional, and €12.50 for each salmorejo was more than I’d ever seen. We felt the extra charges more than covered the cost of dinner, and I’ve read that other guests had a similar experience. I usually read both good and bad reviews, but hadn’t got to the negative ones. If I had, I would have ordered the €3.50 beer instead and skipped dessert.

Breakfast was basic rather than a buffet: coffee with milk, a huge slice of toast with a choice of pâté, butter and jam, or olive oil and tomato. You could have more toast, and it was enough to get the day started. The food we tried was excellent, each dish better than the one before. The palace has been turned into a charming hotel, with spotless rooms and very friendly staff. Manuel, the manager, also worked reception and served as a waiter, and shared information about things to see nearby. We’ll be back.

The restaurant is right in the town center, close to the castle and across from the church. We didn’t stay at the hotel, but the food was high quality and nicely prepared. We tried local dishes, including Andrajos, croquettes made with fried eggs and chorizo that sounded odd but tasted great, roast lamb, and olive oil ice cream. Even in Jaén, that ice cream was a surprise. The service was friendly and professional.