Ylläs Lake hotel

The shuttle pickup for skiing, and the airport bus drop-off, are at eelin kauppa, an easy five-minute walk away. The ski shuttle only comes every three hours, but it lined up with resort opening and lesson times and was reliable during the week I used it. I didn't book any Safartica winter activities, though I saw small groups heading out, and arranging pickup looked convenient. Their program listed things like husky and reindeer sledding and snowshoeing, starting at 100-200 euros. In winter, don't expect much of a lake view. I enjoyed my five nights here. It's homely and comfortable, and one of the more affordable options in the area, though not a luxury stay. The room was clean and the heaters worked. It was cleaned every few days. The toiletries could be better, since there was just one cleanser that seemed meant for hair, body, hands and everything else. My booking included buffet breakfast and dinner, which I hadn't expected. Breakfast was much the same each day, with a little salad bar, ham and cheese, eggs, bacon or sausage, some cereal and pastries. The pancakes tasted microwaved, and there was brewed coffee. Dinner had salad, soup, a protein, potatoes or rice, vegetables and dessert. The choices weren't huge, but there was enough and the food tasted good. Everyone was friendly, from the front desk to the dining staff. On my first day I mentioned the empty soap dispenser in my room, and the young man at the desk immediately went to refill it, apologizing as he did.

The staff were really kind and friendly, though I wish they'd explained the night entrance at check-in. The reception isn't open around the clock, and the doors are locked at night, which we hadn't been told. After watching the northern lights, we got stuck outside. Eventually we spotted a small note saying the night entrance was another door, but that door was locked too. A few stressful minutes later, we realized our room key opened it. It's an older hotel, but nicely situated, and you can see the northern lights from the "garden".

The rooms are simple and practical, and the people here are kind and friendly. It feels like a family-run hotel in a good spot right by the lake. The food is local and tasty, though simple, so don't expect French cuisine. There are two saunas and plenty of activities on offer, including snowmobiling and skiing.

It's a basic hotel, but everything hygiene-wise was in good shape. You can tell the place is cared for and well loved, and the food was varied and delicious. I was especially surprised by the shower: lovely to use, with strong water pressure even when my husband used the sink, and it got to the right temperature quickly.