Hostellerie de l'Abbaye

The terrace tucked behind this fairly unassuming place was lovely, and we were seated even though we hadn't booked. We were three for lunch, two French residents and my Canadian sister-in-law. She ordered a starter and dessert, while my husband and I chose mains and dessert. Her starter arrived first, but our food only came after she'd finished and I'd asked where it was. Maybe I should have requested that everything arrive together, though that's never been necessary for me at other French restaurants. The smoked salmon starter was delicious, but it was one large piece of bread, so it wasn't really a club sandwich. Our fish duo with tagliatelle vegetables and cream and mussel sauce had a delicious sauce, though my husband got much more of it than I did, and I could have used more. Both fish pieces were sadly overcooked and dry, and the bread in the basket was dry and not fresh. The desserts were delicious, but the chocolate mousse was too much for my sister-in-law and overwhelmingly chocolatey. Even my husband, who's addicted to chocolate, could only manage one spoonful. Her plate also took a long time to be cleared. Sadly, we won't return on our next visit to the superb Abbey.

Dinner alone would make this place worth another visit. It was absolutely superb, the kind of food you wouldn't find in a run-of-the-mill hotel in the UK. The room and breakfast were good value too. Our small room was clean, with a comfortable bed, and its little windows opened straight onto the church square and bell tower. You could almost lean out and touch the bells. Pedestrians, cars, and the chimes made it a bit noisy, though bearable if you're used to police sirens all night in a London suburb. If you're not, probably not! We were at the very top of the old house, and getting up there would be difficult if you weren't fit and sober. The room itself was rather small.

We came back for a birthday dinner because my sister had stayed here two years ago, when our extended family visited and there wasn't enough room at home. We'd eaten at the hotel that evening and remembered how good it was. So glad we chose it again. The food was exceptional, and we couldn't believe it cost about half as much as anywhere in Melle. We'll definitely be back. Visitors wanting to learn about the area can see the wonderful Abbey in Celles sur Belle, which the hotel is named after. If you like walking, the old railway line lets you walk all the way through to Melle.

On Fridays they have a BBQ using big tree logs, so there's a lot of smoke. It's fine if you don't mind eating while sitting in a smoke house.