Château Hôtel de la Muzelle

The staff were delightful and happy to help with anything. We only stopped for afternoon drinks and a few nibbles, so I can't say anything about the rooms. The old chateau is stunningly pretty. Storms had washed out parts of the access road around the same time La Berarde was wiped out, so getting there meant taking the free cable car from Les 2Alpes. Go and visit.

This hotel feels like a fairytale castle, and I can imagine writing a book here. It's an old building with plenty of character: a moody lounge with comfortable chairs, a fireplace, piano, and chandeliers, rather than the sterile feel of a white hospital. It's a family hotel, and the laundry hangs to dry in the garden. The staff mostly speak French and only a little English. I think that's how it should be. Be proud of the language and culture. The rooms are cozy, with small windows and shutters, thick carpets, and surprisingly new, modern bathrooms. There's no elevator, as you'd expect in a castle. Breakfast is French, with homemade jams and fresh rolls. The coffee is good, though not Italian quality. I'm a coffee lover and have high standards. Lunch and dinner are great, all French-style cooking, no fast food. The duck with orange sauce is amazing, and the hotel doesn't have bad wine. The castle is in a valley between steep Alpine peaks, with wild mountains all around and a river behind it that you can hear at night. The road toward Berarde ends 24 kilometers away, has little traffic, and is narrow. At 1,000 meters, the hotel is cool in the morning even in summer. It must be lovely in winter. A 600-meter walk downhill gets you to the Telecabine to Les Deux Alpes, an eight-minute ride uphill. For winter sports, I can see how that's a way onto the slopes. The alternative is a long detour on the N91, which means you'll need a car. It's a paradise for cyclists and hikers. I wouldn't recommend it for anyone with walking difficulties, since the trails sometimes have large stones and the road can be steep. Cyclists have eight famous Tour de France cols within riding distance. Alpe 'd Huez is the best known, but the climb up Berarde beside the hotel is the most beautiful one I know: 24 kilometers uphill, with a maximum 10% stretch and lovely scenery. For young kids, it may not be the best spot. There's a swimming pool about 800 meters away, but children can't hike or cycle, and those seem like the main reasons to come here, along with the incredible peace and quiet. I could write a book in this place. Parking is limited because the valley is narrow. There isn't room for many cars, and parking a bus or camper seems almost impossible. The hotel sits in a steep valley, so there's only so much space. You can't move a mountain. I give it five stars, but there are a few things I'd improve. The beds are short for Dutch people, as in many hotels. The coffee could be stronger, and the espresso is too watery. It should be creamier. The food is good, genuinely high-quality French cooking, but the portions are too small after a hike or a road bike ride. A long mountain ride takes a lot of energy, and I imagine winter sports enthusiasts need plenty of calories too.

We were there after the TdF, so the area was still busy, and parking was a little difficult to find. We didn't try the food, though there was a bar and restaurant. There's mini golf and plenty of seating at both the front and back. Room # 210 had been renovated, including the flooring, tiles, paint, and faucets. The bed linen was clean and comfortable, and the bathroom was too. Opening the bedroom's French window and the bathroom's single window let in the sound of the river behind the hotel, which was a lovely way to fall asleep.

We could only stop for a Stella Artois and a lovely Margeaux this time, but the hospitality was five stars. Beautiful building, setting, and gardens beside the river.