A Spelunca

The room was tiny, but comfortable and thoughtfully decorated with historical touches. There’s also a large, historically decorated lounge where you can read or plan your outings. The hotel sits in the center of the idyllic little village of Speloncatu. Hikers might enjoy Monte Tolu and Monte San Parteo for their lovely views across the Balagna region. About 17km from the village, there’s a beautiful, uncrowded beach with free parking.

The room I stayed in felt very dated, with peeling wallpaper, holes in the wall, and poor cleanliness. Its bathroom had a bathtub and a broken showerhead. Breakfast costs €9 per person per day, and it was excellent and plentiful. The restaurant in the town center is the main business here. It’s well cared for and the food is good, though prices are high. So the restaurant and breakfast were fine, but the hotel itself needs work.

The location is lovely, but that couldn’t make up for the lack of courtesy or hospitality. I had to call because the host hadn’t told me that a bag of my personal belongings had been left behind. The welcome and treatment weren’t great. In August, the attic room was stiflingly hot without air conditioning, and it didn’t even have a bathroom door.

Breakfast was simple, generous, and reasonably priced, and there was parking nearby. The attic room with a bathroom is on the top floor, so the ceiling is quite low, but the room is pretty, clean, and well equipped. The building is a well-preserved former cardinal’s palace, with a lovely period living room and attractive furnishings. It’s a superb place in the heart of charming Speloncato.