The Londesborough Arms

After a day walking the Yorkshire Wolds Way, the bath in my huge room was just the thing for my aching muscles. I had a lovely view over the beer garden, a fireplace, a gorgeous old-style bathroom, a comfortable bed, and a decent night's sleep. The Londesborough feels like a proper pub with plenty of regulars, and the landlady made me feel very welcome and safe while I was travelling alone. I expected a basic room because the price was reasonable, but it was fantastic. They don't serve food or breakfast, though there was instant porridge and a few snacks in the room, which suited me perfectly. I'd definitely recommend staying here if you're visiting the area.

The rooms have lovely wood panelling and fireplaces, and the stone pillars outside make the place look very attractive. Still, although it seemed empty, we were put on the top floor up narrow, steep stairs. Heating only comes on now and then, though they'll give it a boost if you ask. Downstairs was disappointing. The only open bar was brightly lit, with game shows on TV, and the front lounge was also bright, usually empty, and had neither music nor comfortable seating. We spotted the beautiful Real Ale Bar and the beer is good, but it was closed, dark, and musty-smelling. The staff member we saw twice, once for a drink and once when we stayed, was welcoming enough but not especially service-minded. There's no breakfast. We didn't check the dinner menu and ate at The Bay Horse instead.

The staff were friendly and welcoming, but I don't think we'll be back. We stopped for what I thought would be a quick cup of tea: two cups, a jug of milk, sugar, and a teapot full of water with just one teabag. After brewing it for three or four minutes and stirring it a lot, it still tasted like hot water. That came to £6.

There's a wood fire in the bar, which adds to the cosy feel. It's a dog-friendly hotel with plenty of character, spacious rooms and bathrooms, and great service.