The World Famous Tan Hill Inn

The Inn was packed, but there was a good choice of beers and other drinks. We ordered a couple of the giant Yorkshire puddings, plus fish and chips and one of their pies. Everyone was happy with their food, and we left full and glad we’d made the journey. There are rooms there, and I’d love to stay one day. The food was delicious, and I bought some merchandise to remember the visit. The trip had a few reasons behind it: The Tan Hill Inn is 1,732 feet (528m) above sea level, I’d heard about people getting snowed in and having to shelter in the pub, and it’s in the Yorkshire Dales, where I was staying with family. It was once surrounded by coal mines and miners’ cottages, serving workers, drovers and farmers crossing the moors. Now it draws cyclists in lycra, motorcyclists in leathers, and farmers in flannel who still drive their tractors there. Getting there meant waiting on narrow roads for groups of cyclists to work out how to let us pass. Surprisingly, riding single file for a bit or stopping at a suitable spot never seemed to occur to them. On the drive back, we kept waiting for farmers on tractors heading to the Inn for a well-earned pint. They kept waiting and waving us through, which was odd since the tractors are large and really do take up the whole road. Still, it was a great experience.

It was a warm welcome, though the service was slow, and I'd recommend booking a table ahead. The pub sits in breathtaking countryside with panoramic views. I bet staying or camping there would be amazing. Our meal was only okay. The portions were generous and looked impressive, but the food lacked flavour and we were all a bit disappointed. It’s not cheap either. The bartender seemed unsure how to make the Old Fashioned cocktails listed on the menu and checked with other staff, so we went for pints instead. It was incredibly busy, so maybe the kitchen was just having a bad day. I wouldn’t rule out coming back, given how stunning the setting is.

The location was great for the Pennine Way. We stayed in a campervan and paid £10 to charity. Dinner was booked, and both the service and food were good. We booked breakfast too, but 8:30 was the earliest available and felt late. The door stays locked until then. Breakfast was good, though the hot food took about 20 minutes from when we ordered.

The Sunday lunch was easily the best I’ve had anywhere in the UK. The plate had lots of variety and generous portions, and everything tasted fresh. I’d especially recommend the pork, they didn’t skimp on it. My partner had the vegetarian roast, which came with proper veggie sausages because they’d run out of nut roasts, so we’ll have to come back. There’s good merchandise for sale, too, and we couldn’t resist taking home a Tan Hill carabiner mug. If you’re visiting, I’d encourage walking there from Keld or Muker along the Pennine Way.