The Kings Arms Hotel

I came to Stow-on-the-Wold with my family mainly to take photographs, and the north porch of St. Edward’s Church was my favourite spot. The famous “Tolkien Door” sits in a thick stone wall between two old, twisted yew trees that have grown into the arch. It really does look like something from The Lord of the Rings, maybe the Door of Durin or a hidden elvish entrance. I spent about twenty minutes lining up shots while the kids pretended to be hobbits peeking through the roots. My partner stood back to show the scale, and I got a few candid family portraits too. We later climbed the church tower's narrow stairs for views across the Cotswold hills and a panorama of the patchwork fields. Back in the square, I photographed the children laughing by an old wall in the golden afternoon light. There were antique shops and cosy tearooms to wander past, and the whole place felt full of stories to capture. Stow is only a short drive from Bourton, but it has a different feel: it's up on a hill, with a broad cobbled market square and more than a thousand years of history. Its honey-coloured stone buildings are old and slightly crooked, with leaning walls, wonky doorways, and leaded windows. On the day we visited, a crisp breeze swept across the square. Bourton feels gentle and watery, while Stow is ancient, windswept, and full of character. For me, with my camera and family around me, the quiet made it all the more memorable.

We were really hoping for a great night, so it's a shame the service let things down. Quite a few orders were wrong and had to be sent back. We had to ask for more drinks, and even after the incorrect meals went back to the kitchen, the right dishes never arrived. Most of the food was okay, but my burger was incredibly dry and came in a soggy bun.

I was in Room 9. The staff were friendly and the welcome was okay, but the place still felt like it was missing something. The stairs up to the room were very steep. It was cold in the room during the day, then the radiator was far too hot at night, and the bathroom towel rail didn't work. The food was okay, though I would have enjoyed it more if the plates had been warm.

The braised beef was so tender it melted in the mouth, and the pie was spot on. Both dishes felt made with care, and the food was delicious and homely, just right for coming in from the freezing weather. The pub was cosy, with a great atmosphere and attentive service even during a very busy Saturday night. Lots of locals popped in for drinks, so it clearly gets plenty of custom. I'd book for a weekend dinner. We'll definitely be back.