House in Mestia

I stayed for a month and would gladly have stayed longer. The guesthouse is well located, and the hosts are warm and welcoming. When I got injured, they made sure I had what I needed.

Svaneti’s natural beauty, history, and spirit are incredible. That’s part of why I’d consider staying here again if I’m ever back in this corner of the world, but only if the problems I experienced have been addressed. The bathroom was a long way from the main dorm. At night the walk could be freezing, and the bathroom was often in poor repair and unpleasantly dirty. I hope they’ve renovated it or plan to build one attached to the dorm. When I stayed, sheets, towels, and other important items were being washed with water alone, without soap. That’s a crazy practice for a hostel. In many countries the municipality would get involved. If they’ve changed this policy, they’re welcome to say so in a reply. The old house itself is gorgeous and welcoming, in an even more gorgeous town. The price used to be unbeatable at 15 GEL per night, and the mountain air was crisp every day. But the family’s attitude often felt very unfriendly, especially as a racial minority travelling long term. They would offer home-cooked meals to white-looking, blonde-haired guests passing through, but those offers were basically never made to me, even though I stayed much longer and paid the business far more. I got almost no warmth or local travel advice until those guests arrived, became friends with us, and the family suddenly started acting friendlier toward everyone. I understand there may be deep cultural and historical reasons for this behavior, particularly in formerly Soviet countries or places that once had large gypsy populations. Still, in the 21st century, when paying international travellers trust you with their lives and well-being, and you present yourself as a sincere, committed host, that attitude is unacceptable. A huge amount of the revenue that helps the city and government survive comes from the Western world. One of the men in the family, around 20 to 30 years old, constantly glared at me when I worked on my laptop inside. I felt like a homeless beggar living on their charity, or a black sheep in-law forced into the family after an unwanted pregnancy. This is not the right attitude for a family business that mainly hosts international backpackers and travellers, especially when race seems to play a part. Being on the receiving end was deeply traumatic. The hostel and family would need to find it in their hearts to fix these things before I’d consider returning.

The outdoor area is cute and really relaxing, and the kitchen is spacious. The room itself is very simple. There’s a mama cat with three kittens, which was so heartwarming to see. The city center is about a five-minute walk away, and the accommodation staff were very kind.

The garden is lovely, with grape vines, pink flowers, a seating spot near the rooms, and another area under the gazebo. It’s a flat five-minute walk into town. The hostess is friendly and helpful, though she doesn’t speak English. That was fine with Google Translate. She also let me leave a couple of bags there while I went on a multi-day hike. I stayed in a dorm with seven people. The room is basic but has what you need, and it’s hard to beat for the price. I could have kept my bag in the room, but left it in the indoor area beside the bedroom to free up floor space since it was packed already. Laundry costs 10 lari, and there’s plenty of line space to dry clothes or air out a sleeping bag. There’s a kitchen with a stovetop, fridge, and all the amenities. Bonus, a beautiful, friendly cat and her kittens live here!