Zaina Lodge

The lodge has a lot of potential, and our one night in Mole National Park could have been wonderful. The biggest letdown was how little welcome or flexibility we felt. At breakfast and dinner, food was kept very limited, and when we asked for more, we were told they didn't have it. Staff also came across as unusually strict and scarce with resources. That doesn't fit a place charging luxury prices, where I expected more generosity and a warmer approach. The safari tours were another disappointment. The lodge charged almost ten times what the national park charged directly. We were told the lodge tours were “special,” but the experience was exactly the same as the park tours. I'd strongly recommend booking through the national park instead. It's a shame, since the place could be fantastic with a more guest-focused approach. As it was, it felt overpriced and overly capitalist, rather than like a genuinely warm, high-quality luxury stay.

The wildlife and scenery were the highlights. The views are stunning, elephants came right up to reception, and a lovely little genet hung around the lodge. But the lodge lacks atmosphere, and the rooms felt very basic for a five-star hotel. On arrival, we were told about all the things our plan wouldn't let us do, then asked to pay for extras we didn't want before we'd even had our welcome drinks. The food was very nice, though you can't order just one glass of wine, only a whole bottle. When we got up at 5am for the safari, we weren't even offered a bottle of water. Other safari hotels we've stayed at offered tea or coffee and a pastry before the tour. It has a luxury price tag without a luxury experience. Since Zaina is the only “luxury” safari lodge, it has no competition and no need to offer guests a luxury stay.

Wildlife is right outside the room, and the park views and sunset are amazing. We even had a wild elephant visit the front of the hotel each evening, and you might spot animals at the watering hole. The safaris are highly recommended, with elephants and lots of deer to see, and do try the night safari. Just expect plenty of flies after dusk. The room is spacious, the shower pressure is excellent, and the ice box is handy for keeping water cold. I would have liked a kettle, and the WiFi in the room was very dodgy or unavailable. The pool and bar are nice, though restaurant choices are limited, especially on the full-board package. Staff were friendly and helpful, but check-in and check-out took time. Check your bill line by line when leaving.

We brought our grade school-age kids and made some lasting memories, and the park view from the pool deck is stunning. The rooms were comfortable, and most of the on-site staff were friendly. We saw elephants on both outings, though animal density in the park wasn't especially high and sightings can be hit-or-miss. The stay fell short of its premium price. The outdoor restaurant was sweltering, the chairs were full of beetles, and the food was so-so. None of our three rooms had WiFi or hot water. One also had no AC, and we had to push for a room change. Our morning safari booking was fumbled: one person was left out and the rest of us were split up. You may still enjoy Zaina if you keep expectations modest and don't mind overpaying for what you get, or don't get. There probably isn't a better option in Mole.