Ég & Föld Borvendégház

Walking along the hillside beside the vineyards was lovely. Even with fog and mud everywhere outside, it was wonderful to sit indoors, watch the view and listen to the fireplace.

A lovely little place to stay, and comfortable too. The view is nice.

Everything was just right!

We had a great weekend here, though I suspect the place is even better in summer, when everything is green and the terrace gets more use. We came because we love Szekszárd wines and wanted to explore the historic wine region. Ég és Föld is in the middle of it, reached by a wonderfully wild road that feels like a gorge. The sauna is wood-fired and has a panoramic view. It’s on the small side, but heats up well, and having oils provided was a thoughtful touch. I did find the extra charge odd, since wellness access is usually included. The house’s shared stove also works as a fireplace and made the place feel cozy. There’s a cellar with their own wines; I imagine it’s especially nice to escape the summer heat there for a glass or two, though it was cozy on our visit too. The cellar’s empty downstairs room feels rather sad as it is. A few chairs, a barrel table or some wine-themed furnishings would make a big difference. I loved the hanging chair in the living room and could have spent hours reading the newspapers in it. The layout is much like other cottages of this type, with big windows, a living room and kitchen together downstairs, and a gallery with a large, very comfortable bed. The stairs by the bed are steep enough to feel dangerous. A handrail would help if you get up at night. And if you like to sleep late, bring an eye mask, the morning sun really pours in. I also missed having more privacy. A few times I walked just metres from the neighbors coming back from the sauna, and from the tub I could see them cutting trees. It felt a little like being in our own yard while a neighbor passed through. A hedge could probably fix this, but as it is, it’s quite disturbing. There’s no breakfast, but you can grill or stew here. Another option is to walk over to the Heimann estate, where the head of the family, Zoltán Heimann, offers a chatty wine tasting and cold plates made from his own homemade treats.