Fortino Napoleonico

The historic fort makes this a special place, and it has a beautiful restaurant. But the last time we came, six years ago, the stay felt more special. Some of the little touches, like robes in the room, were gone, and although we’d reserved dinner, service was on an upper deck instead of in the restaurant. I don’t know whether the restaurant lacks cooling or why they chose the patio, but it was plain and barely decorated, so we ate elsewhere. Breakfast had a wide selection, though the eggs were ice cold when they should’ve been hot. We’d gone out of our way to stay here again on this trip through Italy. I don’t think I’d make that effort another time.

A special, unusual place to stay. The terrace was great for sitting with a drink and looking out at the Sea.

The pool and sun beds were lovely, and it wasn’t too busy while we were there. The fort-hotel has a beautiful seaside setting, with access to the water over rocks and pebbles. The rooms were nice, and all the staff were lovely, but they didn’t provide drinking water or proper coffee, just instant, and there was no milk. A bottle of water costs €5, and in the heat you’ll need plenty, so they really should leave complimentary bottles each day. Breakfast choices were poor, and most lunch and dinner options felt overpriced, though the food was good. The sea can be tricky for kids when the waves are up, but easier when calm, so sea shoes are handy. It’s relaxing and only 30 minutes from the airport, which makes it convenient for arrival, but the price is hard to justify.

The staff were incredibly accommodating. Although the restaurant menu was all seafood, I’m vegetarian and they went out of their way to find me different things to eat at every meal. It’s a beautiful, remote area.