Folgore

After a night’s rest and two wonderful meals, we were ready to ride again. The family running the hotel did several things to help us prepare for the next day, far more than we expected. In 25 years of travel, I haven’t experienced that kind of kindness elsewhere. We’d stopped there the night before at the end of a 1,200 km Alps motorcycle trip in July 2023, exhausted after riding above the snow line through sleet and starting to freeze. Hotel Folgore gave us hot coffee while we tried to recover, even as we dripped over the entryway and Robert could barely hold his mug from shaking. Staying there may have saved us from a crash: we were too tired to continue when we arrived, and the next 15 km of riding were even harder.

A lovely bar worker and a much better stop than the places at the top. I enjoyed grabbing a sandwich and coffee here on the way through the pass.

The dining room had a real late-70s time-warp feel. The view was great, the food average, and the prices moderate.

I stopped here to recharge after cycling up Stelvio from Bormio Terme spa. Though it was around 15:00 and the lunch rush had passed, I was made to feel welcome. The service was quick, and the woman serving understood several languages; I spoke in English and Italian. I got a panini, cake, and a great latte macchiato. The homemade cakes are a nice touch, too. The inside and tables were lovely and clean. I could leave my bike beside the roadside tables, and they refilled my water bottle when I asked. I assume the water comes from the mountains; it tasted fine. Across the road there’s a sign at about 2,800 metres where people seemed to stop for photos with their cars, motorcycles, or bikes. Friendly service and great value.