Nittardi

Nittardi was one of the most memorable tastings of my travels this year. Laura was an elegant, intelligent and very knowledgeable guide, and the setting was lovely, with first-class wines. We drove down a narrow stony lane, following a brown roadside sign through several private property signs, into the valley towards Nittardi. The road ended almost 4 km later, and we walked the last 500 metres to the old defensive tower on the boundary between the Siena and Florence provinces. Built in 1183, it became Michaelangelo Buonarroti's property while he was painting the Sistine Chapel. Now Peter Femfert, a Frankfurt publisher and art gallerist, and his wife Stefania Canali, a historian from Venice, own the estate and restored it with great attention to detail. It's beautiful and calm, with a strong sense of history. Their son Leon runs the family estate, which makes some brilliant Chianti and Super Tuscans. Laura greeted us in perfect English, introduced the estate, explained the buildings, and showed us two rooms of original artwork. It represents more than 40 years of label art for Casanuova Chianti Classico (DOCG Black Rooster), created by famous European and a few American artists. We began in the cellar with a fragrant 2024 Vermentino, well bodied, with some minerality and salt influence, and a lovely tart finish. Next was the 2022 Belcanto Chianti Classico, a lighter, fruitier, more acidic style aged 12 months in French oak. It would be excellent with lunch, fresh salumi and cheeses. My favourite for taste and price was the 2022 Casanuova di Nittardi at 24 euros. Made from 100% Sangiovese in the single vineyard Vigna Doghessa, it spent 14 months in new (10%) and old 500 L French oak. It had a great nose, was wonderful on the palate and smooth as silk, with dark fruits, excellent oak in the background and good structure. I liked it enough to buy one to share with friends in Monteguidi and another to take back to Australia for a special dinner. The 2020 Gran Selezione was outstanding too, though 42 euros is a lot in Australian dollars. Winemaker Carlo Ferrini showed masterful use of old and new oak and concrete vats. At 15% alcohol, it was a powerful, enjoyable wine, with a level we don't see in a Sangiovese in Australia. Laura also introduced the family's Super Tuscans from the Morena region. History says Michaelangelo sent 'Nectar Dei' to the Pope, with a cask for himself, of course, and the family still follows that tradition with each vintage. It's a very impressive blend of 50% Sangiovese, 25% cabernet sauvignon and 25% cabernet franc.