Quattro Passi Relais

Getting to the restaurant is quite difficult, but I really hope I can eat there again someday. The whole visit was made even better by the warm welcome and first-class service. Inside, the room felt majestic, with open windows letting in the spectacular sea air and weather. The food was sublime. The appetizer, inspired by Quattro Passi's early days as a pizzeria, was a lovely touch. The Mullet Wafer was my favorite and a must-try. I can't say enough about it, and I'm confident it's the best fish I've ever tasted. The tomato pasta looked simple, just noodles and red sauce, but the flavor was astonishing, with such concentrated, rich tomato that it took over completely. I also loved the saffron, rice and chocolate tart, especially the rich taste and playful texture of the rice grains.

The fresh, creative courses were full of flavor, and the wine pairings worked beautifully with the meal. Kiara, the sommelier, guided us through the wines with real skill. Salvatore and Antonio introduced themselves after we were warmly welcomed, and they looked after us wonderfully. We’d come early to enjoy the sunset and the idyllic sea views in Nerano. After a small delay, we were shown to a lovely corner table overlooking the water. My wife and I have been lucky enough to eat at many fine restaurants around the world. We consult the Michelin guide, but also try to stay open-minded and follow the chef’s vision as we share the experience. We were excited to dine here, and left impressed. The three Michelin stars felt well deserved.

This is about the restaurant only. The service, food and decor all help make its three Michelin stars feel deserved, and the experience was fantastic and unlike anything else. A few practical things to know: parking for guests is right next to the restaurant, but the spaces are extremely tight, so be careful with your car. If you can’t find it, ask at the front desk and they’ll direct you. The drive there was some of the toughest I’ve done, with few easy ways to get there, so be prepared if you’re renting a car. You can book across a good part of the day. We picked a later evening time, though, and arrived when it was pitch black. If you want to see the view, avoid an evening booking, since we couldn’t enjoy it at all.

I left having eaten and drunk well, and I did enjoy the evening. Still, I felt a little disappointed because I’d hoped for something more distinctive and emotionally striking at this level. This is just my personal view as a North American chef who has eaten at Michelin-starred restaurants around the world. My palate, expectations and background all shape what I say, and I know a whole team, a talented chef and a family put their heart into Quattro Passi. The meal was elegant and, to me, showed the chef’s Italian roots, memories and care for local ingredients. The dishes were carefully made and well executed, but I sometimes missed that unexpected spark or moving “wow” moment. Maybe I didn’t fully understand some of the ideas behind the food. I enjoyed the dishes, though only a few struck me as truly memorable or outstanding. Service was very good, but the connection between the kitchen and diners didn’t always feel complete. I wanted more context, stories about the ingredients, details on the wine pairings and some insight into why each dish was made that way. The explanations seemed uneven between tables. I even overheard details about dishes I’d already had being shared with guests who arrived after me. The desserts also surprised me with how simple they were. They weren’t bad, and perhaps that night’s selection played a part, but I expected more from a three Michelin-star experience. I know Italian desserts can be more restrained by tradition, yet I was hoping for a bit more creativity or technical flair. This is only one chef’s humble opinion, shaped by taste and life experience.