Relais Palazzo Di Luglio

We thought we'd booked a four-star place through booking .com, but this hardly felt like a palazzo. Our room, a garnett, sat in the blazing sun all day and got unbearably hot. The roughly 40-year-old air conditioning only worked at about 15 percent. The old-fashioned furniture didn't feel quaint. We booked four nights and left after just one because the intense heat meant we couldn't sleep at all. The coffee was very good, and so were the views. That's about it.

The place was clean and quiet, and our hosts were caring but discreet. You can tell they put their heart into everything. I doubt I'll ever eat anything as tasty as Luglio's open-fire steaks, his toasted bread with rosemary-scented lardo, or his wife's breakfast cakes. We stayed three nights, and I highly recommend it. I really hope to return in the fall and help with the olive oil making.

The pool was green even though it was +26 outside, and I would have liked to swim. There were cobwebs in the corners of our room, which was disappointing. The place is otherwise perfect, with a great location, excellent views, and good staff.

The owner was so kind and involved that we felt like part of an extraordinary family. What a wonderful experience, with such a beautiful atmosphere, almost a glimpse of heaven.