Green Hills Souan

The hotel has a traditional Japanese interior and lovely staff. It’s a quaint little place surrounded by beautiful woods, high up on a mountain. Just keep in mind that the nearest convenience store is about a 15-minute walk away if you need anything.

The room is spacious, and the ofuro, or indoor bathtub, has lovely hot water. Turn the red-trimmed knob and it fills with hot water right away, no fuss. The cold water is no joke, 9°C! One thing to watch out for is getting around Hakone after about 16:00, since buses to this area stop running. You don’t want to be stranded and walking for around 30 minutes in the dark to reach the hotel. The entrance is up a roughly 45° slope, so plan ahead. Taxis exist, but I still don’t have clear information about them. I think the hotel entrance is near the sign for the restaurant entrance. The sign on the main road is in kanji that looks quite different from the way other locals write it, and it has no alphabet letters. At the time I’m writing this, they’re offering me breakfast, but I haven’t tried it yet. The receptionist working during my stay didn’t understand English, so have Google Translate ready and expect to use gestures.

The food was the reason I picked this hotel, since I love a good meal and was looking for a place focused on cuisine while attending a nearby event. I’ve stayed at other auberges, but this one gave me a creative, delicious, and surprising experience unlike any I’d had before. The seasonal ingredients were especially tasty, and I enjoyed trying combinations I’d never had, drawing on Japanese, Western, and Chinese cooking. The variety kept the meals from getting boring. Portions are generous, so arrive at dinner hungry. Breakfast started a little late at 8 a.m., but I was delighted by the spread of smoked food. Reaching the top of the steep entrance slope brings you to a charming mansion. The building has historic architecture, with lots of Japanese touches inside that make it interesting just to stay there. The rooms are standard. The bathwater apparently comes from groundwater rather than a hot spring, but I stayed warm and cozy for a long time after bathing, so it still gave me that hot spring feeling. My skin felt smooth afterward, perhaps thanks to the minerals. The slope may be a concern if you’re driving a small car, and in winter it could be scary in a rear-wheel-drive car. It was such a good stay that I’d plan a trip just to come back.

My partner’s birthday was the occasion this time. I mentioned that I wanted to celebrate somehow, and they kindly made the final dessert birthday-themed. The amuse-bouche was also absolutely delicious and made me so happy while I was eating it. Thank you very much.