Seikanso

We had the full board, with breakfast and dinner, and loved the peaceful outdoor onsen in the moegi room. It has an outdoor shower only, and the bath was lovely and hot. The room was spacious and laid out well. Our host Anupa was friendly and accommodating. We had some trouble communicating about the dishes, so it was hard to know what we were eating and how to eat it. Knowing Japanese would probably make the experience fuller, though plenty of other foreign guests were there, so you can certainly visit without it, as we did. The kaiseki looked beautiful but didn't taste good to us. It felt like quantity over quality, with flavors all over the place, some too salty or sweet and others barely seasoned. The dishes didn't come together into a coherent meal, and the soups were too fatty and oily. It wasn't like food we'd had elsewhere on our travels. The bedding was also a problem for me as a side sleeper. The padding on the tatami was very thin, and the pillow seemed made specifically for back sleeping. I had the worst back and shoulder pain after sleeping there, while my partner, who sleeps on their back, was totally fine. At the time of this review, there didn't seem to be a way to improve the side-sleeping setup, so I'd be very cautious about booking if you sleep that way. There's not much around, so plan to spend the day in the room or use a bus or taxi rather than walk. This was my first ryokan, so take my impressions with a grain of salt.