Gyokuzoin

The monk-style meals were unfamiliar to some people in our group, and a few found them a little bland. I still really enjoyed the experience: I spent one night there on my Japan trip, slept on a futon, and got dressed in a kimono and haori.

The sutra tracing was a letdown. We had hoped to learn about the practice, the calligraphy brushes, and its ritual, but a monk put out tracing paper and pencils, gave a brief comment about writing from the heart and sutra being important, then left us to report to reception when finished. There was no real explanation of the fire ritual either, and it felt rushed, though experiencing it was still fun. We only saw a monk for that ceremony, since we otherwise had no interaction with them. The follow-up prayer wasn't included, and cost an extra 5,000 yen per person. We wanted an authentic temple stay, but the accommodation was a hotel beside the temple. A school group of about 50 Japanese children, around six years old, ran and shouted through the hotel, so a quiet, zen meal behind a paper wall wasn't happening. The grounds had about 2,000 lanterns, many damaged, but bright white street and flood lights made a romantic, dim evening walk impossible. It all came across as commercial, and the total nightly cost added to the disappointment. Maybe overtourism has changed experiences like this. Either way, it was a long way from what we'd expected during our trip to Japan.

On my 2017 solo visit, the place felt like a hidden gem and an introvert's haven. I enjoyed private kaiseki dinners and breakfasts with a lovely view, and could choose a table or floor seating and from different menus. The obasans at the bathhouse were nice to talk with, and the local guests were respectful while the monks were attentive. It ranked among my three favorite experiences in Japan. Coming back with my husband in 2024 felt different. There were no locals around, and the monks had Apple Watches and were selling drinks and products. That wasn't bad in itself, but it made me realize the stay had changed. Meals were in a shared room, with tourists sitting on the floor about half a meter apart. Our room was in an attached building rather than the main one. It had an elevator and spacious rooms with mountain views. I still enjoyed this visit and appreciated the staff, who speak English quite well now. The grounds are kept up nicely. I'd suggest it to people after a less expensive alternative to a ryokan, with hikes and temples that weren't crowded and had great views. This will probably be my last visit. Photos attached are from 2017.

We spent one night here in July 2024, booking through the Klook app. It's popular and rooms are limited, so we were lucky to get one. The price seemed fair for the setting, meals, and services. For the journey from Osaka, we took a JR train to Oji station, then bus 43 to Shigiohashi Bus Stop. Our Japan Railpass covered the train. From the stop, it was about a 10-minute walk to reception, with signs along the way. The mountain setting among forests and temples was beautiful, especially at night. Our room had tatami, futon mattresses, and simple furnishings. The futons were really comfortable, and we could adjust the air conditioning ourselves. Towels, a toothbrush, and a traditional Japanese Yukata were in the room; soap and a hair dryer were by the showers. The host welcomed us with tea and pastries, then explained the rules for ceremonies, meals, rooms, and showers. Both meals were vegan. Dinner was fine, but breakfast felt very sparse, and I would have liked more options. We went to the fire ceremony at dawn, at 5 AM, and found it moving and unusual in a good way. Other ceremonies can be requested on site, though they're not part of the standard price. I enjoyed the stay and would recommend it to anyone wanting a night with monks in a beautiful setting as part of a Japan trip.