Fukenoyu

Dinner and breakfast were amazing kaiseki meals, and the rooms felt cosy. Mine got very cold at night because there was no heater, though the blankets were warm enough. The indoor onsen was pretty standard. The outdoor baths are open during the day, with one mixed bath and one separated by gender. The mixed bath really is fully mixed, including the entrance. The women’s outdoor bath is right by the sulfur steam, so the smell can be strong. The building is a bit old and not as well kept as some other places, but it was still comfortable. The staff don’t speak much English, but they’re very kind.

The scenery here is spectacular, and you can take a public-style Japanese outdoor bath in either the men's or women's section for 600 yen per adult. The water comes bursting out hot and volcanic, and it’s muddy. There’s a hotel if you want to stay. You can get here by car or bus, though I saw that the bus only comes around 2-3 times a day.

We came back the next day because we liked the food so much. We tried sake with a grilled fist soaking in it, bear meat curry rice, and nabe with wild mushrooms and rolls of pressed. The outdoor baths were another highlight, with amazing views over the nearby mountain fumaroles, and the indoor bath was peaceful too. This was our favorite discovery among the onsens we visited on our Tohoku tour. We didn’t stay overnight, so I can’t comment on the rooms.

The hot springs were fantastic and the food was good, but I wouldn’t recommend staying overnight. I was there for one night in October 2022, and it was only 3 degrees Celsius outside when I arrived, with the temperature dropping. There weren’t many guests, the room was very old, and there was no heater. I didn’t check the room temperature, but it was VERY cold.