Okutoroonsen Yamanoyado

Soaking in an onsen in Japan’s only enclave village feels like a rare experience. The hot spring source is cold, so the large bath is heated and circulated, while the individual pots use the source water and have that proper sulfur smell. With a pH above 9 and its reputation for beautifying properties, the water made alternating between the warm bath and cold spring water really relaxing. It’s a quiet, comfortable place at night, and the attached convenience store has what you need if you’re car camping for a few days. There’s also a restaurant next door for lunch. Even though Kitayama is secluded, the onsen itself is clean rather than old, with mountain and river views from the open-air bath. Being beside a roadside station also makes car camping and overnight stays convenient.

The onsen was great, though getting there took about 40 minutes from Kumano along Route 52 in our motor home. It’s a secluded spot, and I wouldn’t recommend that drive because the roads are so narrow and winding.

Surrounded by mountains and a sacred river, with fresh air and a spot on the border of three prefectures, this has always been my escape paradise. Such a lovely place, without the over-tourism you get in Kyoto, Tokyo, and Osaka.

The views are excellent, and the place is surrounded by mountains and a river.