Ryokan Harimaya

The small, family-run inn has a warm, homey feel, and the staff’s habit of addressing guests by name reflects their sincere care. I’ve stayed here four times, through January 6, 2020. It’s east of the Kamo River, about a five-minute walk from Jingu-Marutamachi Station on the Keihan Line, between Marutamachi Kawabata and Marutamachi Higashioji. Three of my four visits were in Japanese-style rooms with carpeted tatami. They had a little alcove with a TV and dressing table, plus a small kitchen, which surprised me. The ceiling lights are adjustable, and in winter there’s a kotatsu, nice for watching TV with tea or coffee. The TV only gets terrestrial digital channels. The rooms are clean and feel secure. They’re divided by simple sliding doors that can be locked. Baths are private and used in turns, so you might wait when it’s busy, but they call your room when it’s your turn, which lets you relax while waiting. The washroom and toilet are shared, as is a refrigerator with a freezer. Bringing drinks is fine. There aren’t convenience stores nearby. Coming from Jingu-Marutamachi Station, the nearest 7-Eleven is on Kawabata-dori Street, north of the station. There’s a washing machine and dryer with detergent, available for a fee. Families are catered for too, with toys in the bath and child-sized toilet seats, so women can feel at ease using the facilities. If you know the old Showa-era inns by train stations or hot spring resorts, you’ll feel comfortable here.

This was my third stay, right in the middle of Gion Festival season. I’d traveled a long way to Kyoto, but the cozy atmosphere made it feel like I was visiting a relative’s home. I came away with a lovely trip memory.

The young proprietress is so kind, it’s really soothing. This traditional townhouse inn is near Kumano Shrine. I always stay in the 4.5 tatami mat room facing the road, so I can’t say what the back rooms are like or how spacious they are (laughs). The shared toilet and bathroom probably explain the low price. If you don’t mind sharing, I recommend it, though really, it’s the sort of place I’d rather keep secret.

I stayed without meals at this retro Showa-era inn, closest to Jingu-Marutamachi Station. The shared restrooms and sinks were clean and nice. Thank you.