Asahisou

In the evening, the lights are dim, perhaps so as not to draw the Yokais or Tanuki-bozus. The house's small sounds stand out: a kettle whistling, dishes rattling by the kitchen sink, water running in the onsen. This valley feels like stepping a hundred years back in time. There's an old building by a rocky stream, with little tatami rooms separated from the icy outdoors only by an engawa. At least the windows are glass instead of paper. A wooden stove greets you at the entrance, and the indoor and outdoor onsens are filled with pure hot water to warm you up.

The family bath is free to use on a first-come basis. Soap is provided, but there was no shampoo or towels, though you can buy them separately. At 5000¥ per person for the night, I thought it was very reasonable. The toilets were uncomfortable, and there's no soundproofing, but the other guests were considerate. We stayed for one night in early November 2025 and loved it. The onsen was beautiful, just like the pictures, and the temperature was perfect. The whole place felt like a step back in time. At dinner we met a wonderful lady who drove us the next morning to a nearby hiking trail to see some waterfalls. The trail entrance is near Noren Falls, and you can walk there from the guesthouse too. Don't go to Hakotaki Falls, because that trail is damaged and closed off. Finding the other waterfalls from there was an unforgettable experience, to say the least.

The owners are such kind people, and the place was extremely clean. The water left me feeling so soft after bathing. A bath costs just ¥200 per adult. You can also rent a large room from 11:00-3:00 for ¥800 per person, bath included. There's a pond with some of the biggest koi just outside, beyond the lobby.

It has a strong old-fashioned feel, like soaking in good water surrounded by history from hundreds of years ago. I heard it was renovated about eight years ago. The spring water is silky, and the bath has a cave-like atmosphere. The water runs a little hot, but you can soak or sit on the edge and relax. The tub tiles and wood were both very clean. For a day visit, admission is 300 yen and they take credit cards. It opens at 3:00 PM. On Saturdays there were usually only two or three other bathers. There's no shower, and only a few small pieces of soap were left, so bring your own. There are no coin lockers, so it's best to leave valuables behind. The bathhouse and bathing area are dark, which could be tricky if you have presbyopia.