Unohana Onsen Hagien

Breakfast was satisfying, and I didn’t need to pack a hair dryer since the hot spring had several types with strong airflow. The room itself was clean, spacious, and well equipped, even with a microwave. Getting amenities was a problem, though. The annex is a long way from reception, and shampoo and facial cleanser were only kept there. As a first-time guest, I wasn’t told where to find them, so I went without. I used the bathroom’s body soap to wash my face, and the next morning my skin felt painfully rough. That was a real letdown, especially at a hot spring.

The room’s old air conditioner was loud enough to bother me while I slept. Still, there was a lot to like here, especially for the price. The meals came in a private dining room in the main building, which may have been a guest room before. We could relax and eat there. The Yamagata beef shabu-shabu was so tender it practically melted, and the sweet soup in the taro stew was different from what I’d expected, but in a good way. The rooms are in a separate building and have a calming modern Japanese look. I liked the indirect ceiling lights. I’d expected an average place attached to a day spa, but the inn really impressed me and felt like good value. The baths are an indoor one and an open-air one, with the outdoor bath said to use natural hot spring water. The water felt great. There’s no sauna, but guests can use the rock sauna for free, and robes and towels are available at the hot spring reception. Last reception is at 7:30 PM, and the hotel closes at 9.

I was looking forward to the local-style lunch. The fried horse mackerel namero, beef and taro stew, akebi, and udo were all tasty, but I could’ve done with a bit more food. A big serving of imoni would’ve been nice too 😋

At night I went to open the back door in the parking lot beside HOTEL THEH and fell into a drain. There are no drain covers there, so I got soaked. Watch out! Hotel guests can use the oxygen capsules and other bath amenities for free. One thing to know about the evening kaiseki meal: there’s no menu, so you don’t know what the next dish will be.