Nasu Onsen Sanraku

The reason we finally managed to stay here on our second booking attempt was the onsen, and it lived up to its reputation. There are four baths in all, two inside and two outside, with one of each in the men’s and women’s rooms. Those rooms switch sides each day, so a stay of at least two nights lets you try every bath. The outdoor pools sit among trees, rocks, and boulders, which is lovely. The water is what has made this place famous with onsen fans. We were glad to get two nights at this grand, old hotel. It’s on the main road through central Nasu, around 30-40 minutes north of Nasushiobara Shinkansen station. We drove from Haneda Airport, which took about 2.5 hours. Local buses also run from the station along the road to the hotel, taking roughly 40-50 minutes. The rooms show the building’s age, but the meals were very good. This traditional Japanese hotel usually includes breakfast and dinner, and both were among the better meals we’ve had at this kind of place, even if not our very best. Highly recommended.

Such a peaceful, lovely place. The woman looking after us took thoughtful care of our whole family.

I’ve never written a review before, but this stay was bad enough that I felt I should. I visit Nasu four or five times a year and have tried places at all sorts of prices. Usually the hot springs are good, the people are kind, and the food is tasty. I’d never had a bad stay until Sanraku. The price was more than twice what I’d consider understandable for what we got, even if it had cost under 10,000 yen a night. The food was awful, with small portions and little taste. The rooms smelled and felt old, and the towels were like worn-out rags. The bath is advertised as being cleaned every day, but it was slimy. At night the outdoor bath was so poorly lit it felt like a swamp. Service was also a zero. Most of the staff seemed to be part-timers, though I don’t blame them personally. There wasn’t a single thing I liked. It felt like getting ripped off at a bar in Kabukicho, and I strongly say don’t go, even by mistake. Don’t be taken in by the website. Sun Valley is 50 times better, and Sansuikaku 100 times better. I looked into it afterwards and found the company changed hands 10 years ago. The parent company is to blame. Be careful.

That open-air bath was enormous and spectacular, and the large bath fed by freely flowing water was great too. This is a wonderful inn to enjoy in any season. I had the best time.