Shugojin Onsen

We booked a room with a private bath and liked it so much that after one look inside, I went straight back to reception and booked another night. The owner gave us a big bottle of wine when we arrived and explained everything. The room felt very homely and cosy, and we relaxed right away. After more than a month of traveling around Japan, it's easily my favorite accommodation. I wish we'd found it sooner instead of staying in Kumamoto and driving back and forth to places like Aso shrine and takachiho gorge. The room would also be nice for a couple with young children. It was large, with a tatami living room, koratsu, TV, microwave, and fridge. There was a heated mat under the carpet, which made it warm and cosy. The owners also provided bottled green tea and cups. We'd brought chopsticks and paper plates and bought food before arriving, based on earlier reviews, though there are supermarkets 10-15 minutes away by car, which we used on the second day. The bedroom was at the back of the living room. The futons were very comfortable, with super soft duvets like pillow clouds and good pillows. The toilet was very modern. You can use the onsen bath 10 times, though we managed five visits. It's big, with a good-sized shower area, and the owners supplied plenty of towels, shower gel, shampoo, and conditioner. We really enjoyed the music you can turn on in the bath area. I'd read complaints about the road and spent the whole drive worrying it would be difficult, but there was no reason to. The road was in good condition. It zigzags and slopes down toward the onsen, as you'd expect in the mountains. If you're willing to drive around this area, this road is much like many others nearby. And if you're looking for a remote onsen, there won't be an expressway straight to it.