Kurhaus Ishibashi Ryokan

Our little family loved the place and slept well on the comfortable futons in our Tatami-style room. The staff were polite and attentive. I can see why it won't suit everyone, though. You need to be curious and have an active imagination to enjoy this grand, mysterious old place. It's sprawling and oddly laid out, with so many levels and corners that I wish we'd had a week to explore. I could write novels about it. We're convinced Wes Anderson stayed here before writing the Grand Budapest Hotel. The oddness starts at the entrance. The lobby feels more like the proprietors' private lounge, with their supplies, dead electronics, and reading materials. A woman in a kimono spends the day in her corner among her papers and lamp, standing up to greet each arrival. Vinyl slippers are lined in rows on the entry steps, and several staff members check guests in with pen and paper. Guests can use the hot spring spa rooms during set hours. It's informal, and they were usually empty when we visited in the busy season, so people with tattoos could use them without the usual restrictions being enforced. The bathrooms weren't the cleanest, and the amenities weren't very modern, but we loved the whole eccentric setup. There's a walking tunnel under a mountain, a mosquito pond among the buildings, hallways full of memorabilia, kitsch that takes itself seriously, a game and exercise lounge left over from 1983, and a broken coin-operated VCR. We hope to come back for longer someday.

It's Shimoda's oldest Ryokan, with a traditional feel, tatami rooms, and paper doors that still feel warm and cozy. The service was outstanding. There's also a relaxing onsen and a common room where guests can hang out. I'd recommend coming during the Black Ship festival, when the city gets lively. Definitely recommend staying here.

Our room, No. 28, smelled strongly of mold and had a noticeably slanted floor. The AC filters weren't installed properly, so we had to put them in ourselves, hoping that might keep more mold out of the air. They charge you at check-in, which means you can't leave after seeing the room. The only reason I'm giving a star is that the hot spring was okay. Ask which room you'll get, and if they say 28, request another. From the other reviews, maybe some rooms aren't hazardous to your health. For what it's worth, I've never left a negative comment before.

We spent two nights here with my husband, and I loved it. Walking in felt like entering someone's warm, cozy home. The people were so kind and friendly. I saw an older woman and man in the lobby, who I think were the owners, and they were lovely. Everything feels traditional and authentic. The place is old, so it's a great choice if you're after a distinctive, authentic Japanese stay. The Onsen was really nice.