Sansaro Cafe & Guest House

Dinner and breakfast were delicious, and we really liked sitting together with the other guests for both meals. The room was nice, too. There’s no shower, but staying here for the Kumano Kodo comes with free entry to the nearby Onsen, which was amazing.

The food was tasty, and the dog was very friendly, a good soul like nearly all dogs. The Onsen is gorgeous, though it’s a 5-10 minute walk away and that’s where you shower. The host was polite, but didn’t feel especially warm. The lodging is basic, which by itself wouldn’t bother me, but the price felt steep for its condition. It’s also far from the trail. We felt the place pulled us away from the Kumano Kodo experience, and the hospitality lacked the depth we found at many other places along the trail. Other reviews suggest the atmosphere can vary, but for us it felt uncomfortable and unwelcoming, unlike our other stays on the Kumano Kodo. It’s clear others had a good time here.

There isn’t a shower on site, which is a bit of a pain after a long hiking day, but they give you a token for the local Onsen. My room was clean and comfortable, next to the bar, and the air conditioning worked well. Dinner was lovely, especially the tasty curry. I also enjoyed my short stay, the yoga session with the owner was fun, and Haru the dog was very friendly.

We ended up walking an extra 7 km because we hadn’t noticed this place is a little farther along than Koguchi. There’s a bus as well, so keep the distance in mind when booking. Once there, we had a really nice stay. The hostess was lovely and ready to help with anything. There’s no shower in the guesthouse, but they gave us Onsen tickets, and the outdoor bath has a wonderful mountain view. Dinner and breakfast were very nice, hearty homestyle food that suited a day of hiking. I’d recommend it if you’re after a cozy guesthouse.