Nanzansou

The scenery is really nice, and the food and hospitality were great for a reasonable price. Mitake san is definitely one of the best places to stay overnight.

The meals were a highlight, with tasty fresh mountain ingredients. It wasn’t necessarily the best meal I’ve ever had, but it felt like a healthy dinner that let the fresh flavors come through. The rooms are nice, there’s an onsen, and the staff are incredibly warm and welcoming. Aside from being up on the mountain, I found the hotel impeccable. Just be careful about getting there. Google Maps may show a direct drive to the hotel, but that isn’t possible. The hotel website says to park at the cable car station and ride up, so check the last cable car departure time after booking. From the cable car station, it’s about a ten-minute walk. The hotel is right beside Ontake Shrine and a shopping street, which is very convenient.

The location makes it easy to visit the shrine and other nearby sights, and there’s even a cute cat who greets you and joins you for little walks. From my room window, I could watch the sunrise and starry sky all to myself. The bath also has a wonderful view over the Kanto region. I came for one night to see the night Kagura performance at Musashi Mitake Shrine, and loved the room, amenities, and staff. The food was especially memorable: homemade konjac, grilled trout, homemade pickled cabbage, and even Western-style gratin. I ate plenty and still woke up hungry enough for two servings of rice. The coffee after dinner was great too, made with delicious water. I’d definitely like to come back.

The inn has been around for more than 200 years, and the owner's father is the 26th generation. It really was a memorable stay, and I understand how it’s stayed loved for so long. I was there for my first solo trip, and the innkeeper and everyone else were very friendly. Apparently the bath has a fantastic view over the area around Mount Ontake.