Okutsumagoi Onsen Hanaichi Hoshikawa Ryokan

We stayed at nine ryokans during our Japan trip, all with traditional dinners and breakfasts, but this family-run place felt especially meaningful. It was cozy and beautifully decorated, and the food is what made it our favorite. The chef, the owners’ son, trained in traditional Japanese cooking, and his dishes had real soul. Each local ingredient was brought to life, and the meal was satisfying in so many ways. We’d already had plenty of first-class meals, but this one stood apart. The chef was recently named number one in his prefecture, and I can see why. It’s a hidden gem for an experience you’ll remember.

We had a wonderful stay at Hanaichi before the Tsumagoi Cabbage Marathon. The staff were friendly and went out of their way to arrange rides to and from Karuizawa station and the race venue. Our room was spacious and clean, with lovely views over the farmland and mountains. The food was a real highlight too, among the best Kaiseki I’ve had in Japan. We’ll definitely visit again.

Hanaichi isn’t the most expensive place, and I’ve stayed at pricier, more luxurious places, but I keep wanting to return here. The service, atmosphere, food, presentation, cleanliness, hospitality, and cat or cats are all top notch. My first stay was in Sept. 2023, I came back just last week, and I’ve already booked another visit for November. Tonoshimi :)

The room was warm and cozy, with a semi-open-air bath and a fireplace I could light myself. It felt like having a bonfire, and I loved watching the flames. A large window by the head of the bed let me lie back and look at the stars without straining my neck. In the morning, I could watch the sun rise over the mountains. Close the door if you want to sleep in. The meal used local ingredients, and every dish was delicious. The grilled trout was carefully cooked, plump even when simply salt-grilled. The hot spring water tasted slightly salty and left me feeling warm after a soak. Since the bath was right next to the room, I didn’t get too cold or dry afterward. I went to see the kitty, who seemed to have a cold that day, so I only admired him from a little distance until he seemed better. He came out to see me off and rubbed against me. The room, hot springs, food, and chanko were all excellent. Thank you.