Shirabu Nishiya

I was impressed by Nishiya's 700-year-old hot spring and delicious meals. The portions were generous, the ingredients were high quality, and the all-you-can-drink bar included with dinner was a nice extra. It felt like great value. I stayed two nights in March during a five-day Yamagata trip using the Tohoku rail pass. The service is intentionally more minimal than at a traditional ryokan, giving guests more freedom. We liked being able to use the baths when we wanted and relax in our room without having to coordinate with staff. I had some confusion around the local phone number I gave them. It was a family member's number since I didn't have one locally. I had coordinated my arrival time ahead of time and reached the shuttle pickup spot on time, but the staff couldn't get through to me using that number. It would be helpful if Nishiya offered another option for international visitors without a local number. Highly recommended if you're after an authentic historic hot spring getaway with great Wagyu beef meals.

The food was fantastic. I had Yonezawa Beef shabu shabu, which was incredible, and this has been one of my best stays in Japan so far. The inn is stunning inside and out, and staying here felt like getting away from daily life and stepping back in time. It was a wonderful way to experience an authentic stay in Japan. The historic onsen was a much-needed chance to relax. The staff were lovely and incredibly helpful. When I showed interest in the irori, they lit it, showed me how it worked, and gave me snacks. They also have two adorable cats, and I spent a good hour playing with them.

The bath is small, but it felt almost like a religious experience. Scalding water pours from fountains in the wall, and the temperature varies a lot, so you have to wait until it's right. The pool looked like it was made of black volcanic rock. You sit very close to other people, but somehow it doesn't feel awkward. The water is clear with flecks of white and doesn't have a strong smell. I drove here from Yonezawa on a side trip in September, when the road wasn't crowded. It was well worth it. The inn is hundreds of years old and worth seeing on its own, especially after the fire that destroyed the original Higashiya nearby. I only came for the baths, and the staff were welcoming and friendly. If you have time, walk down to the nearby waterfall for an amazing view.

The peaceful setting makes this a great place to get away and relax. It's a beautiful, historic ryokan with excellent food. The hot spring is 700 years old and really cool. There isn't a shower, so you wash using a bucket before getting in.