Yufuin Rakuyu

The food and service were amazing, with a semi-fine-dining feel. The chef brought out some of the dishes, and staff even took our shoes when we entered the restaurant. Our room was very spacious, clean, and nicely decorated, with a private onsen whose temperature we could set ourselves. Staff were happy to help if needed. The path to the room is outdoors, and the luggage path is a bit rough. Still, it’s a luxurious hotel with great food and service. I’d come back.

The location was fairly remote, though easy enough to reach by car. It was almost a half-hour walk to Yufuin’s main street. Our room was updated and modern, but musty, and the linens and bedding smelled of mildew. The outdoor onsen had a nice feel, but it was small and shallow, with only enough room for one person. In the morning the water was just 38 C, lukewarm and cooler than a shower. That was a major disappointment at a high-end ryokan where the onsen and dining are supposed to be highlights. Plenty of hotels and Airbnbs we stayed at during our month in Japan had hotter water. The shower also shut off every minute or so, and you had to push a lever to get the water running again, like a public restroom faucet. There were quite a few mosquitoes outside around the units, which made it unpleasant to sit in the onsen. Some got into our room at night when we came back from dinner. Dinner was in the communal dining room, which had a good range of Japanese whiskey, sake, and shochu. There was no turn-down service, and nothing extra was left in our room for the evening. No one explained or showed us how to wear the yukata, so we weren’t sure what we were supposed to wear to dinner. For a property with only 10 units, the service felt impersonal and inattentive for the price, even though all the staff spoke English and were very friendly. Most of the guests were foreign, so it didn’t seem like a language issue. There were hardly any common spaces apart from a small bar, and not much to do on the property. That made it all the more important for the staff to make the visit memorable, but there wasn’t much else to the experience. We wanted to like our stay, but several things fell short and the value just wasn’t there. It was pleasant in some ways, but not worth what we paid.

We loved the privacy of the little villas, each reached along a path to its own entrance. The drivers, front desk, and our favorite dinner server all gave top-notch service. It had everything we wanted in a ryokan: a traditional feel with yukatas and seasonal kaiseki meals. The dishes were simple, but each was done well, so the meal still felt luxurious. This place was magical. I’d definitely recommend it to anyone visiting.

The staff made us feel at home. Our message saying we’d be delayed hadn’t reached them, but they waited patiently for us anyway. Jun-san, Miata-san, the chefs, and the rest of the staff were all warm and friendly. It’s also only a short drive from popular spots like Yunotsubo street and Lake Kinrin.