Kaikake Onsen Ryokan

The grounds are lovely for sitting and taking in the views. I got there just after lunch and had the whole place to myself, which made the visit even better. It cost 1,200 per adult. Sadly, the restaurant was closed between its lunch and evening hours. This was my favorite onsen so far, simple but so well maintained and homey. There are three baths: hot, warm outdoors, and room temperature. The traditional style felt lovely and clean, and the shampoo, conditioner, and body wash smelled delicious. It felt luxurious, and my skin was really soft afterward. The staff were kind and courteous. Getting there is quite an adventure, and the long drive and day trip were worth it to me. The steep, narrow road isn’t in the best shape, and leads onto a long, skinny, single-lane bridge. I hope I can stay at this ryokan one day.

They only take cash. I’d spent $70 on taxis, and they still wouldn’t let me in.

The road to this ryokan is spectacular, and the outdoor baths make for a unique visit. The water isn’t especially hot, which works well on a hot day, since the men’s outdoor bath is mostly shaded. The building feels like a piece of natural heritage, with photos of Japanese and foreign famous artists who have stayed there over the years. This spring has been around for a long time, and you can feel that history inside. To me, it’s the nicest traditional Onsen Ryokan in Niigata.

The onsen has great energy and a lovely view. The interior and rooms are outstanding, while the service and meal were okay. You need a car to get there. A hidden gem in Niigata.