Otowaya Ryokan

A traditional ryokan feel, with a gorgeous tatami room and paper sliding windows. The typical Japanese breakfast is available, and the clean, pleasant onsen is open 24 hours, with separate areas for men and women. The outdoor pool is small but warm and nice, even in winter. It’s conveniently located for both the train station and the local ropeway, even if you’re on foot with luggage. If you want a typical ryokan rather than a brand-new fancy hotel, this is the place.

I came for a day bath after skiing because I found this among the few inns offering day baths, and the open-air bath photos looked appealing. At reception, the owner kindly tried to explain availability, but I don’t speak Japanese and couldn’t understand. I paid and went in, then realized the baths alternate between men and women at different times of day. I had arrived at the wrong time for the facility shown in the photos and could only use a smaller bath. I checked the official website again and couldn’t find an explanation of this arrangement. I also looked around the front desk but saw nothing that clarified it. It would be helpful if the inn clearly explained how day bathing works. For foreign visitors, language and access to a phone line can make it hard to find out what to expect. That said, I wish the owners good business.

I came just for the Onsen, which cost ¥1200. There’s a small indoor bath and another outside, both with a nice old-fashioned, transitional feel. I went around 2pm and had the place to myself. After bathing, there’s a small resting area to cool down, with free water, cold Japanese Mugi tea, and a vending machine. The entrance is dark and there doesn’t seem to be staff there, but you can ring the bell on the check-in counter to call someone.

We paid nearly ¥65,000 for two nights with breakfast only, so that’s the basis for my review. The breakfast tasted good, but about 90% of the dishes, including the fish, came out of the fridge and were cold. It’s mainly a light, healthy Japanese breakfast, with lots of pickled vegetables like you’d get on the side of a bento. The building is old, but very clean and peaceful. Our simple ryokan-style room was nice, and the staff were friendly enough. Still, we didn’t feel welcome when we arrived. My wife is Japanese, and the older lady barely managed a smile while the younger one seemed awkward the whole time. When my wife asked about the private onsen, the response wasn’t helpful, so she used the public one instead. Maybe it’s normal for a ryokan, but there’s hardly any heating outside the bedroom, so dress warmly for breakfast. The lights weren’t on in the building, which gave it a gloomy boarding-school feel, and the main reception area was dark too, making it harder to put on shoes. It’s a nice little place, but I wouldn’t stay here on my next visit to Yuzawa. At this price I’d choose a hotel, or pay more for a better Ryokan.