Eliye Springs Resort

Sleeping beside the lake under the stars was a special part of the stay. There’s no WiFi, little electricity and not many comforts, so come prepared for that. It takes a real effort to get there, but the views and atmosphere make it worthwhile, right on the shore of Lake Turkana. I had a fascinating chat with the German owner, who has been here since 2007 and is dealing with water levels that keep rising and slowly eating into the resort. They’re doing their best to move structures farther up the bank.

The dusty scrub and shrubs give way to camels and doum palms as you drive through. Around Turkana, the doum palm is also known as Engo'l. Lake Turkana is one of the cleanest lakes, with no pollution around the water. Crocodiles are a risk, though, so take a tour guide if you want to explore the deeper parts.

The manyatta prices are good, but meals, drinks, and excursions cost too much for what you get. By the end of my stay, I didn’t feel the prices were sustainable, especially since they still seem to charge for the same experience as five years ago. Rising lake levels have badly damaged the resort, and the team is clearly struggling to keep it in order amid all the destruction. They have managed to move some accommodation farther up the bank. Still, the place feels chaotic, with broken, rusty, neglected things in every corner. It’s sad to see it in this condition, though I can see they’re still trying.

It’s a very remote spot, but seeing the lake when you finally arrive is a huge joy. The hosts are lovely, the food is delicious, and the views of Lake Turkana are breathtaking. A truly unique experience in Kenya.