Cartesiano Boutique & Wellness Hotel

The location couldn’t be more convenient. The square is a seven-minute walk away, and we had the best steakhouse dinner just across the way. Our larger room with a balcony was everything we hoped for. The look matched the photos, it was super clean and smelled divine. The bathroom was huge, with a separate water closet from the shower and sink area. The towels were plush and fluffy, and I loved that they provided washcloths and a makeup-removal towel. The views were pretty, and breakfast options were delicious. The place has a real wellness feel. I didn’t know about the afternoon sound bowl healing, so I was disappointed we missed it. The aromatherapy choices at check-in were lovely. The one letdown was the front desk staff, who seemed aloof and not very interested in anything. If I come back to Puebla, I’ll definitely book Cartesiano again.

What a disappointment. Two lobby plaques celebrate a Condé Nast Traveler survey from 2018, when readers voted Cartesiano the best hotel in Mexico and the second-highest-rated in the world. Eight years later, it probably isn’t even the best hotel in Puebla. How sad. Room 208 had stained upholstery and dingy towels. The rain showerhead was rusty, and the water swung between cold and scalding. When we asked for more drinking water, we were sent to the restaurant to buy it. Five stars? Only if the scale goes from one to ten. The rooftop pool still looks good in photos, but the wooden deck is faded and chipped in places, the glass is spotty, the pool supports are worn, and even the water looked a little murky. Service was uneven. Room-service coffee arrived on time, but two mornings it came in china and the third in Starbucks-style paper takeaway cups. Breakfast on the rooftop terrace was really pleasant, though we sometimes had to go looking for servers. Cartesiano used to be part of The Leading Hotels of the World, but it no longer is. Maybe that’s why this once-superlative hotel is slipping. It looks worn, and the details you’d expect at such a celebrated place are missing. I hope the hotel freshens things up. Until then, a hotel once called the second best in the world is just second best. There are still things to recommend. The location is fantastic, though we saw more graffiti in the surrounding Sapos neighborhood than on previous trips. The hotel’s setting in an old ceramic factory is still marvelous, the room decor and bedding are fresh, and the food is delicious. Rates are reasonable, too. If you stay, just temper your expectations.

The hotel is beautiful and clean, and the rooms are nicely decorated. The stay and amenities get an A+, but the food gets an F. The chilaquiles and tacos were the worst we tried on the whole trip, so I wouldn’t recommend eating at the hotel. The open-air areas are beautiful, with lovely scenery, but there’s nowhere you’re allowed to enjoy a cigar. I understand the rule, but it’s a bummer if you like having a cigar in a beautiful spot.

The old historic features have been worked into the building beautifully. My wife and I spent two nights here for our anniversary, and it was one of the nicest hotel stays I've had. We'd happily return when we're in the area.