Quinta de Malta

The rooms come with a separate lounge, a fridge, and a kettle, and most of the furniture feels in keeping with the period. Dining takes place in a lovely room where guests share a meal. I was struck by the solid stone walls, at least 2 ft thick, which keep the manor cool without AC. It is available if needed, tucked neatly above the false ceilings. This is a large 16th-century Manor House with extensive grounds, a pool, sauna, and gym. “Amazing” gets used too often, but it really does fit this place. A very special visit.

Dinner in the grand dining room was a lovely chance to sit with the other walkers, and we later crossed paths with some of them again on the Camino. The Portuguese food was good, and breakfast was simple but had everything I wanted. We’d contacted the hotel from Balugães for help getting there. Though it’s only 3 km away, the walk takes around 45 minutes and includes a stretch beside a busy main road, so they kindly arranged a ride. When we arrived, our host noticed my daughter and I had a double bed booked and quickly tried to switch us to twin beds. The place is tucked away with lovely views, including an old viaduct. We soon found ourselves by the pool, resting our tired legs and chatting with other guests. Our room looked as if it had once been a stable and was traditionally furnished. It was quite dark, but had all we needed for sleeping. I worried the mattress might be too firm, yet I slept really well. We left feeling completely satisfied.

Katarina handled the front desk and concierge, and was a huge help with everything. The manor sits on a small working farm, with clean, generous common spaces indoors and out. Internet was reliable, and the location makes a handy countryside break between Barcelos and Pont de Lima. Our room had two doors and plenty of windows, which made for a lovely stay. I’d suggest making sure you book one with at least a window. Dinner was fine, though food wasn’t why we came.

The grandmother’s cooking was fantastic, with really generous servings. This is a beautiful, well-organized family place, and the grounds are wonderful. I’d happily spend more time here.