Pensao Sisudo

We felt caught off guard by the appetisers. Bread, olives, and cheese were brought over without anyone asking if we wanted them, and ours were already on the table while we were still taking off our coats. We assumed they were free, as bread often is in France, Germany, and elsewhere, but they ended up costing more than our starters combined. Make sure to tell the staff as soon as you arrive if you don’t want any. It’s awkward to argue about paying once you’ve eaten them, of course. I thought you couldn’t be charged for something you hadn’t agreed to, and I don’t know whether this is common in Portugal. It left us feeling that unsuspecting tourists were being taken advantage of, and it overshadowed the meal.

We went with our tour guide, who chose the dishes, and every plate was delicious, as if it had been made with love. It was the best meal we had anywhere in Portugal, and the food tasted like home. Don’t skip dessert, the lemon pudding and chocolate mousse are to die for. If you’re in Sintra, I wouldn’t have lunch anywhere else.

The atmosphere was lovely, and the food was outstanding. I had the octopus and absolutely loved it. It’s authentic Portuguese food, and I’d happily go back.

The apartment was dirty and damaged throughout, and the bathroom was covered in grime. The shower swung between freezing and boiling, and there were flies and bugs. A strong, unpleasant smell got into all our clothes. We’ve stayed in cheaper places in Portugal with much higher standards. This was by far the worst.