Cascata do Varosa

A magical place that reminds you to slow down. After the rush of city life, all I wanted to do was feel grateful for the wonderful care we received. Melanie welcomed us and showed me how important it is to switch off, simply to be. This beautiful space feels like a gentle, sublime search for room to breathe. Nature overwhelms us, and so does humanity. Everything felt perfect.

The weekend felt like a real chance to unwind: we watched the starry sky, took in the trees around us and listened to the river. There were some unwelcome insects and millipedes, though that’s understandable given where the houses are. Our Casa - sereno was well equipped, and we didn’t need to turn on the air conditioning. There was no Vodafone signal, but the property’s internet worked, which suited a restful break. We’d first tried to book Douro Cister Hotel for the long weekend, but it was full. A few minutes later, manager Sr Paulo offered us a rural cottage in the same complex, close to the waterfall. The property includes Hotel Cister, bungalows further down, and a restored little village by the river. It’s a magical spot beside Varosa river, about 900 metres from the hotel. We could also use the hotel’s indoor and outdoor pools. The complex has another pool in a sheltered spot with sun loungers, tables and chairs, plus a barbecue, children’s playground and ping pong table. The waterfalls are quick and not too difficult to reach, though the route goes through vegetation. The access road from the hotel to the cottages is still dirt and unlit at night. Some cars may find it tricky, but it’s manageable if you take care. At the hotel, the staff were kind and helpful, especially Micaela and the women working in the dining room. Breakfast was very good, with a decent selection, fresh fruit and bread. We noticed some improvement work going on at the hotel. Thanks to the property for a lovely weekend.

We tried to book Douro Cister Hotel and were offered Casa do Lagar, at Cascata do Varosa, which belongs to the same hotel complex. The only warning we got was that there would be no internet in the house. There were other things we should have been told. Mobile reception in the area is extremely weak, too poor for mobile data, and there’s no signal inside the houses. The house had no windows or natural light, and the road to it was unpaved and not suitable for every car. The bigger problems were inside. We found several live cockroaches even though we kept the outside doors shut. The bedding smelled musty and clearly hadn’t been washed recently. There was even a dead cockroach in the sheets. The dishes had dust and debris on them and also looked like they hadn’t been washed in a while. The electric kettle was broken. There wasn’t enough bedding to sleep without the AC on. It’s the first house we’ve stayed in without an extra blanket or duvet for guests. Around 11 pm the power went out in all the houses. That may not have been the management’s fault, but it didn’t make the stay any more pleasant. The houses are isolated in the forest, one or two kilometres from the hotel. If you want somewhere peaceful to relax for a few days, being without lights at night in the woods, with almost no mobile signal to call for help, may not be the ideal experience.

The houses are tastefully decorated and spotlessly clean, and the rural setting surrounded by nature is wonderful. D. Olga and Sr. José were friendly and attentive hosts. Breakfast was generous and delicious, too. The access road is paved almost all the way. It’s steep, but anyone with a driving licence should be able to manage it. I highly recommend staying here. Great value for money, and a perfect place to switch off from everyday life and relax. Thank you, Olga and José, and congratulations on your little piece of heaven down by Varosa.