Rävstens Stugby

The area is charming, but after this experience I’d look for somewhere similar without the hassle. I’m writing this reluctantly, but the people running it need to do better and keep their greed in check. T. Rosen Marin & Racing AB administers the area, and I understand a private company wants to make a profit. Paying customers may be treated well, but if you’re wild camping and aren’t planning to pay for their services, don’t expect “allemansrätten” or basic human decency to be respected. Last year, while camping around Gräsö, my partner and I stopped at Rävsten for the evening. We noticed signs for “bastu,” looked into it, and found that there were two saunas, a large one and a small one, bookable from 16:00 to 22:00. We booked the small sauna for 22:00 and paid 200 SEK. We had a good time and followed the rules. Since it was dark when we finished, we thought it made sense to replace the wood and clean up in the morning. The website showed no one expected to use the sauna again until 16:00 the next day. At 9 in the morning Kerstin Söderberg came over, visibly hyperventilating, and asked whether I’d used the sauna the night before. I said yes, my partner and I had, and that we were already replacing the logs and cleaning the area. She asked whether we’d slept in the sauna. Choosing to camp off the grid instead of paying for accommodation doesn’t mean we’re homeless. She said we’d brought dirt into the sauna. The only dirt that could have got in was what stuck to our feet as we went in and out, and of course that should be cleaned up. But that’s normal for an outdoor sauna. She also insisted on seeing where our tent was. I told her she could walk up into the forest and find it. Then she demanded extra payment for tenting. I explained we weren’t going to pay, since we’d pitched in the forest rather than in the designated camping area. She said it didn’t matter because we’d used the “facilities.” I didn’t even know what facilities she meant or where they were. I apologized for not cleaning thoroughly and replacing the logs sooner. It had been dark when we stopped using the sauna, and we hadn’t done anything in bad faith. It was only 9 a.m. and we were working on it; by the time it reopened at 16:00, everything would be in perfect condition. She lectured me more and said the sauna had to be ready before 16:00 in case their guests wanted it. In the end, she insisted on cleaning it herself, and we replaced the logs. If you don’t want people trespassing, put up signs saying so. Otherwise, don’t treat people who aren’t spending money with you like uneducated chimps.

For a wilderness break, the island has the basics you need, even if it isn’t very big. You can stay in one of the cabins or pitch a tent, and there’s a kiosk for ice cream, soda, and a few other things. Kayaks are available to rent. There are also free rowing boats you can take to visit nearby islands. A nice way to get away from the city.

A peaceful, beautiful spot and such a hidden gem. The wardens were caring, warm, and easy to talk to. Just the right rustic getaway.

Lovely hosts, and camping was a good price. It’s a very peaceful little island and definitely worth a visit.