Koh Ngai Resort Trang

For anyone wanting complete quiet and a break from everything, this could be just the place. There are no shops or real civilization here, only what the resort provides. The resort is quite old, and although you can tell they try to look after it, the age shows and it needs refreshing. The reception staff were very friendly and spoke good English, so getting things across was easy. We stayed one night at Koh Ngai Resort, and that was enough for us.

That little private beach is the best thing here: the water is crystal clear, and you can spot all sorts of fish snorkeling right from shore. There's only a small sandy patch, though, and you hit coral almost as soon as you step into the water, so bring swimming shoes. The shoreline changes with the tide. At low tide you can nearly walk to the reef's edge; at high tide the water can get pretty wavy. Getting to other beaches takes some effort. You can kayak for two hours for free if the weather and waves allow, or take the steep, sometimes slippery "snake trail." It's no breezy stroll. There's also a longtail to the main beach, but we didn't look into it because we didn't think the cost was worth it. The resort is very isolated, so meals and supplies take planning. The minimart has very little, and there are no 7-Elevens nearby. Bring snacks. The restaurant is your only dinner choice unless you fancy hiking the trail in pitch darkness. Local dishes were okay, though Thai food fans might find them underwhelming. The pricing also seemed illogical: dishes offered with or without rice weren't larger or shareable when ordered without rice. We got food poisoning after ordering a Western dish late at night. Reception were friendly and helpful despite a slight language barrier. The restaurant staff, though, seemed indifferent and not very warm, so we left with mixed feelings even though we tried to be polite guests. Our bungalow was clean and the AC worked fine. It's basic, and there's some wear and tear, which seems like the local standard for a Thai resort. A full week was too much for us since the days started to feel repetitive. Three to five days seems like the sweet spot. It suits people who want total peace and don't mind eating in the same place every day or taking the hike; for more variety, the main beach may be a better base.

The view from the resort is good, and it is quiet and peaceful, so it doesn't deserve just one star. But getting there was a pain. Boats usually leave people at the main beach, then a longtail picks them up for the pier in front of this resort. The day I arrived, there was a rare big wave and the longtail couldn't go. I had to carry my bag from the main beach and walk, which wasn't easy, and you have to wait for low tide to make the crossing. The other reason for my two-star rating is the food. They made the worst raknak I've ever had. I'd been in Thailand for many months and couldn't understand how anyone could cook it so badly. Still, good luck.

It was lovely and very peaceful, with friendly staff. We practically had the hotel to ourselves. Just be aware there is no transport between the resort and the main beach, where the shops, restaurants, cafes, bars and massage places are. There's only one path, and it's unsafe. At high tide it's impassable, so you can end up stuck either at the resort or on the main beach.