Campement ZMELA

The long drive was worth it. We got to wander over the dunes and enjoy some quiet time on our own. A beautiful desert adventure, and the staff were super nice and hospitable. I’m grateful I got to have this experience.

If you get the chance to carry your mattress out onto the dunes and sleep beneath the stars, do it. The desert at night is something everyone should experience. We did the two-day desert trip and took the Quadbikes out to see sunset. The visits were outstanding, and the staff made the whole thing special. It was my birthday, and they made an extra effort. The trip touched my soul.

The sunset and sunrise views were great, and the staff were friendly. Bathrooms and cantine were clean. It’s a unique way to experience the Sahara, staying somewhere comfortable but still original.

The camp is large and seems to mostly host tour groups, which turn up a couple of hours before sunset. We came on our own for one night in a 2WD rental, relying on the latest Bradt Guidebook saying the route didn’t require 4WD. Technically that was true, but the drive was rough enough that I wouldn’t recommend it without reservation. Much of it is gravel track with some larger rocks, and there are sandy sections where you need momentum, low gear, and high RPM. We got through those only to get stuck in the sand in the camp parking lot. If you try it, know how to drive across sand and how to free a stuck car. Camp staff were surprised we’d come in a 2WD and said it wasn’t a great idea. Everyone else had arrived in 4WD. There are several tracks on the piste from Ksar Ghilane, so keeping Google Maps open to follow the general direction seems sensible. I had a weak cellphone signal along the route, enough to reach someone if you got stuck, but too slow for data. Download an offline map. Quite a few cars travel to and from the camp. At the camp the signal was weak to nonexistent, though it improved if you walked up some dunes. The tents were clean, well-kept, and comfortable, and the washing facilities were super clean. There was plenty of very nice food. Management runs a very good operation, and compared with similar camps I’ve visited in other countries, this one stood out for its facilities, service, and food. It’s a good one-night stop if you want to be in the desert and walk around the dunes a bit. I wouldn’t stay a second night. We also didn’t see quad riding or other activities like those offered at the busy camps at Ksar Ghilane itself.