初衷民宿 臺東縣民宿1466號

The room’s Daikin air conditioner was my favorite, it ran quietly even when everything else was still. The bed made for a good night’s sleep, and in the morning I could step outside to birds and insects, starlight and sunrise. It made me so happy. Up on the top floor, the place has a Korean tower-house feel. Cool mountain air comes in from behind, with a wide ocean view out front, and the decor shifts with the light. Reading in the gently swaying hammock was lovely. There’s a medium-sized fridge and a water dispenser, and you can cook in the kitchen.

The hostess is very friendly, and the common spaces are comfortable. The rooftop view is beautiful, and there’s a water dispenser inside the lodge. It’s good value, though getting to the village is difficult without a car. The shared kitchen could use more dishes and utensils. The backpacker room is dim, and the mattress is too thin to be comfortable, so those areas could use some work.

I’d been considering Lanyu Island, but the cold and all the gear I’d need made me hesitate. Then I came across owner Li Kunlin’s ad for Taitung’s wild hot springs and found this place. I’m into wild springs, hidden spots and challenging outdoor activities, so it sounded just right. I loved the property as soon as I looked around. The owner’s art is everywhere, and the whole place has a cool style that feels like his own. I could happily have spent a week there without going anywhere else. The river tracing and hot spring trip was amazing. It was my first time river tracing, and the instructor taught us about animal tracks and plants, which was really educational. Clouds covered the stars at first that night, but they cleared, and we soaked in the springs looking up at the sky. It felt like we had the place to ourselves. The owner told us about lots of interesting local spots, and hearing about them made me want to come back. He also said millet wine with lemon Sprite is good. He was so bold, driving straight into what looked like a thick patch of trees and grass with no path, then finding his own wild lemon orchard. I couldn’t believe it. I love this kind of nature-friendly travel that hasn’t become overly commercial. After river tracing he even took us to a cafe on a forest road, which surprised me since I’m not much of a coffee person. We also ate at some tasty local snack stalls. Having them as our guide and instructor for the day was well worth it, and traveling with friends made it a fantastic experience. That’s all for now. I’m worried if I list more good things the owner will get too famous and popular, and I won’t be able to book a trip for myself later 😂

The place has a distinctive feel, with its layout reflecting local Indigenous life. The proprietress was so warm and friendly that staying there felt comfortable, almost like being at home.